Hey guys! Welcome back. So with all the skincare products and ingredients that claim to help with acne and fight signs of aging There’s one that’s been proven for a very long time and approved by dermatologists that does really work, and it’s called vitamin A, otherwise known as retinol, retinoid or retin-A. So this is going to be our first video where we break down the ingredients from vitamin A, and then we’re going to move on to vitamin B, then the ever-so-popular vitamin C. Because all these three form the skincare basics, so we need to learn about them all to see how we can incorporate [them] into our products and our routine.
So today we’re going to explore the differences between retinols, retinoids and retin-A, how they work in the layers of the skin to improve skin turnover, how we should incorporate them into our skincare routine, or when we should steer clear away from them, And how they help with reducing signs of aging and acne. And last but not least, debunking some myths about retinol. And we’re gonna break it down for you and explain everything nice and clear, And we’re also gonna be sharing of course with you guys our favorite retinol products that we’ve been using, that we’ve been loving, and hopefully even if you’re a beginner or you’re like an intermediate user of retinol, you can kind of learn and see how it should really be used. So let’s just get into what vitamin A is. Vitamin A is an active acne and anti-aging ingredient. Basically vitamin A is a retinoid. In the bottom layers where the cells are produced in the dermis layer, it will regenerate new cells to create new and fresh skin. And this will push out the old ones to the surface and so this is the cycle that keeps recurring. So how it works is our skin normally sheds and regenerates every 30 days, so about every month or so. When you use vitamin A or retinoids, it increases this to about 14 to 21 days. It also simultaneously helps with decreasing oil production, decreasing inflammation, it kills P. acnes, which is the reason we get things like blemishes, breakouts, and acne. But also unclogs the pores, as well as that it also helps to reduce pigmentation and sunspots, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, smoothes over textured skin by resurfacing the top layers, as well as reducing the look and the size of the pores and basically just evens out the skin tone because it is kind of like rapidly shedding that top layer of your skin. So you can see why this is one of the most raved about ingredients on the market and that everyone wants to try but also that’s why it can be a double-edged sword because there’s nothing in the world that’s just good: It has to be balanced out with some bad. Before we dive into that, let’s talk about the different types of vitamin A and why we hear different things like retinols, retinoids, and what the differences actually are because they’re very different. Mia! Mia: So vitamin A, or retinol is actually a family of ingredients that include retin-a and retinol. It’s actually a compound that naturally occurs or develops in your body. It helps with things like your your immune system, repairs tissue damage. It also helps with your eyesight. That’s why there’s a lot of vitamin A in carrots, which we advise for you to eat to help with eyesight. The only type of retinol that your skin can actually feel or get effects from is when it’s in retinoic acid [form]. Felicia: Retinoic acid is the medical grade of retinoids and it’s also known as tretinoin or also retin-A. And this is the active ingredient that actually makes all the magic happen under the skin and you can only get it if it’s prescribed by your dermatologist, because it is the strongest form of retinoid. And because tetinoin and retin-A is already a form of retinoic acid, it doesn’t need to be broken down by the enzymes in our skin for it to work. It basically just works. Retin-A is almost a hundred times stronger than the average retinol cream that you buy from brands or over-the-counter And that’s why you’ll only see these ingredients in prescription-only forms. So you might be thinking, “This is great! It’s really strong and it works.” But it’s actually really important to just consider your own skin, and what you actually need. If you are in the older years, and you want to battle things like fine lines and wrinkles, then you can ask your dermatologist for retin-A. But if it’s things like prevention and you’re still in your early 20s or even 30s, over-the-counter retinol does basically the same thing in a much gentler form.
Now, let’s go over to Mia where she’ll talk about retinol. Mia: We can get this anywhere over-the-counter. A lot of brands do them, even drugstore. because retinol is more mild, it’s more gentle There are less side effects, and you won’t have to worry about it burning off your face. So the process of converting the retinol into a retinoic acid takes about couple of weeks, therefore it’s suggested to be consistently using retinol products for at least a couple of months before you see actual results. Because retinol is designed to basically take off layers of skin on the stratum corneum, which is the most toughest layer of the skin, and it also at the same time thickens the dermis layer, which is a deeper layer of the skin, by increasing the collagen production. So at the same time, not only is it plumping your skin, it’s making it appear less wrinkled. It’s also going to exfoliate the top layer, which means it gives you better tone and texture. So at the same time it’s doing that process while making your skin look better and more youthful. Felicia: Alright, so now that we know what it actually is, when do we actually start using it and incorporating it into our own skincare routine? So personally, I’m in mid 25s and it was actually this year or late last year that actually just started using retinols. The general consensus and what you’ll hear from your dermatologist is that in your early and mid 20s is when you want to start incorporating Retinols into your skincare routine because it’s all about prevention. This is actually when our skin cell turnover starts to slowly decrease at very little percentages year by year. So it’s not a lot but it still happens. That’s why the older you get, the thinner your skin is because it’s producing less collagen and collagen is the skin-strengthening protein that makes us look plump, youthful, gives us that radiant glow, because we are young. And also, if you’re out in the Sun a lot flailing around, you know, living your ~best life~, the Sun actually directly kills college in your skin. So if you’re not protecting it with sunscreen in your early years, prevention is actually much harder later on. So you always want to make sure you’re using a sunscreen, especially when it comes to vitamin A like retinols and retinoids. So that’s a general rule of thumb: You don’t want to even think about this before you hit 20 or even like 22, because you’re still fine. Calm down. Mia: So you’re probably thinking oh my god. Oh my god. This is a magic potion! Give me more, more, MORE! Wrong. From my personal experience, using excess of retinol products Can actually cause irritation and drying at the skin at the same time. If you have skin conditions like eczema or rosacea, you might not be able to tolerate it at first, but it doesn’t mean that you can’t use it. You just have to slowly introduce it into your skincare routine. If you have uber sensitive skin like that, you might be a little bit more wary and just be more careful of what type of retinols you use on your skin. Felicia: So if you haven’t used retinols before there are definitely rules that you should follow because it’s all about the importance of application in order for it to really work. So here’s what you want to do if you’re a beginner user: First one is that after you wash your face you want to make sure it’s completely dry. So I would wait maybe like five minutes or two to five minutes after you’ve washed it, just to make sure that it’s not damp. And this is super important because if you apply retinols on to damp or wet skin, it’ll actually absorb deeper into the layers, which can increase the potential that your skin gets irritated. But when it comes to retinol, you want to make sure that it’s completely dry. And I like to just take two to three drops of this and dot this on my cheeks, chin, and forehead, and spread evenly over the skin in an upward motion, and of course avoiding the eye area. And then follow it with a moisturizer because the moisturizer will rehydrate the skin to avoid flakiness and irritation and really just lock in the moisture and seal everything in together. So another way is if you think you have super sensitive skin or you’ve tried before and you’ve come out irritated and inflamed, What you can do is wash your face and then moisturize, wait 30 minutes for the moisturizer to be completely absorbed into the skin and then use a retinol. And this kind of creates and acts like a buffer, so that it’s not as targeted and it’s not as strong to your skin. So you can use this method and do it for the first couple of weeks. Just so your skin gets used to the retinol and then you can go back to the first method that I said. You can actually use two to three pumps of this, mix it in with your serum, or mix it in with your moisturizer, and then apply the retinol and your moisturizer together onto the skin. And this is a much more gentle way of applying it if you’re a beginner and of course if your skin is very sensitive. And, retinol are only to be used at night and in the morning afterwards, always follow up with a sunscreen, because using retinols increases your skin sensitivity to ultraviolet light and because it is so sensitive, if you don’t use the sunscreen, and you step out into the Sun, you’ll actually increase the pigmentation and brown spots. Basically everything that you’re trying to get rid of. So as a beginner, how often should I use it? First of all, you want to be super observant of how your skin reacts the very first time.